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968 Golden Rules


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#21 Cloud9...68

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Posted 27 October 2005 - 06:54 PM

DO The airbox mod! (surprised nobody thought of this yet)

DO install the RacerX chip (though the Promax sounds like a good choice as well)

DO Mr. Greimann's GSS (Gummy Starter Syndrome) clean-up

DO install a short shift kit

DO suspect your engine mounts of giving out, causing unnecessary vibration at idle(replacing mine is an upcoming project)

Great topic!

#22 SILVY968

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Posted 28 October 2005 - 07:26 PM

DO thank 968 friends for great tips, and referrals to sources!  Where can I get "Stoneguard" film for my headlights and driving lights?

Thanks!!! ;)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>


Do protect expensive headlights.
Do not use thin plastic intended for " invisible bra " paint protection.

I just got my 3M Impact Headlight saver kit from Invicna-shield.
This stuff is 40 ML thermoplastic vinyl. It is guaranteed for 4 years with a $1,000 headlight replacement policy if you damage a headlight within that period if this product is installed!! Both headlights and running light pieces are included. Meets all DOT standards. Part # 10585

#23 S_Cal968

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Posted 29 October 2005 - 10:24 AM

DO: Install a KLA [or similar] strut tower bar for better handling.
DO: Precision align the glovebox door - or the alarm may not set. [only in a P-car..]. :rolleyes:

DO NOT: Completely close your sunroof when it's skewed, [stripped gears will result][doh!]

#24 SILVY968

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 07:29 PM

Do clean the injectors as well as remove carbon deposits from valves etc. with BG Inject a flush system.

The BG 9210 Inject-A-Flush® Apparatus provides a highly effective “on engine” cleaning of the entire fuel system. The BG 9210 is pressurized by shop air. It is designed to be used with BG Fuel Injection System Cleaner‚ Part No. 210, and BG Air Intake System Cleaner‚ Part No. 206.

DO every 6 months to keep her purring.
Your car will idle smoother and regain the power that it used to have when new!
Cost for your PM to do it $125.00
Time 1 hour.
or... DIY.
http://www.bgprod.co...ts/fuelair.html

#25 Greimann

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Posted 16 December 2005 - 08:48 AM

Ohh, Ohhh, I have another one:

DO: Periodically check the throttle cable for excessive slack and adjust out most of it out with the turn barrel in the engine compartment. Make sure, however, that when the pedal is full to the floor, the cable is not guitar string tight. You don't want to be excessively stressing the cable.

Reason: the cable can become slack due to stretch and therefore prevent the throttle butterfly from fully opeining at WOT. This is free horsepower people!

#26 ether_joe

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 10:09 PM

keep em comin guys, I am *this* close to driving home in a 968!

#27 Anchorman

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Posted 30 December 2005 - 07:11 AM

DO: check your balance shaft belt tension more often than recommended. Pete (RS Barn) did that for me yesterday, and averted impending disaster.

#28 orphanowner

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Posted 02 January 2006 - 08:04 PM

DO: install an aftermarket chip to raise the engine cutout redline above 7000 rpm. I've tried 3 chips and ANYONE that raises the redline above the 6800 stock cutout is worth the money. This engine LOVES to run over 7300 RPM!

DON'T: over-rev your expensive-to-fix German high output 4 banger or mis-shift into a lower gear than intended! Repairing over-rev damage on the 968 engine is VERY expensive.

#29 sasilverbullet

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 07:56 AM

DO: Mark your timing and balance belts for direction of rotation when reusing the belt. Failure to do so will result in premature failure of the belt.
(learned this from watching a guru yesterday)

#30 Leonard

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Posted 05 January 2006 - 12:52 PM

Do not touch bolster when getting in to drive the 968, even if it means doing a little hop and jig to avoid contact. :D

#31 Anchorman

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Posted 05 January 2006 - 01:00 PM

Orphan - if the engine "loves to run over 7300 rpm", what do you define as the over-revving that's to be avoided?

#32 ether_joe

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Posted 05 January 2006 - 08:37 PM

may I humbly submit a post. . . not a gearhead (yet) but here goes:

DO: familiarize yourself with the car's Variocam camshaft system issues and maintenance. Read this excellent document by Derek and Ugo:

http://www.968forums...&type=post&id=7



Also, how many people replaced their camshaft chain with the aftermarket stronger one? Does this qualify as a 'do'?

#33 orphanowner

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 03:42 AM

Orphan - if the engine "loves to run over 7300 rpm", what do you define as the over-revving that's to be avoided?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>



I was referring to mis shifting and RPM over 8,000. Example...downshifting from 5th to 4th and getting 2nd...

The power drops off pretty obviously after 7200 or so, so it's unlikely someone would intentionally go much over that. At

#34 Cloud9...68

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 04:16 PM

DON'T brace yourself on the center console lid when getting in/moving around inside the car

#35 SILVY968

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 04:55 PM

Always take apart cabriolet moulding metal mounts to check for prior repairs using silicon sealers etc. Remove all foreign matter and slide rubber mouldings into place. The "glue on" approach will leak air and water and misalign glass and top.

#36 Anchorman

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 06:55 PM

Cloud...968 - got tip, but, at least for me, impossible to follow. So, my tip is - always have at least one spare console cover hinge.

#37 Brian

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 08:08 AM

anyone mention the gummy starter syndrome??? this post is long...
just cleaned mine out this weekend when i was working on the exhaust.
i can't believe how dirty that thing was!
it's an hour long job and well worth it. car starts fantastic now.

tip - if you can find new motor brushes before you do this, replace them. the orig's are worn down pretty badly. the motor is slotted and must wear the brushes pretty fast. i think there were like five or six on there. i also had some elec motor cleaner from my old rc racing days and cleaned the heck out of the elec contacts. they were filthy.

#38 hot968

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Posted 26 February 2006 - 06:09 PM

When closing the hatch, place hands over the pin/latches, not in the middle of the Spoiler.
Renron

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>




Good Do - my hatchback is ruin, leaks and separated from frame, I brought it not nknowing it even though I had a PPI done. They guy missed this. I love the car thougha nd would have brought it any way. But replacing the entire Hatchback is expensive.

#39 flash

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Posted 26 February 2006 - 07:47 PM

when closing the hood - do not push down on hood badge - sheet metal is paper thin - you can easily end up with a new "recessed hood badge" - drop hood from about 16 inches

#40 jeffm40

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Posted 27 February 2006 - 04:26 AM

When changing headlamp bulbs, do not turn lights completely off unless snap wings are in place and housing secure. Most of us want to test everything before we put it back together but my son was helping me and turned the lights completely off causing the headlight to "hide". Guess what? They won't close if the snap wings are out, they just scratch your paint around the housing. BE CAREFUL!!

Great thread, keep 'em coming!



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